White and Church, Cocktails and Bites, New York City

Sinfully Delicioso

281 Church St. Tribeca
New York, New York 10013
212-226-1607

Reviewed by: Rada Steinberg

www.whiteandchurch.com
Food and Service:

In a land not too far away (New York City), is a street corner called White & Church. Upon this corner sits a humble abode of a restaurant, replacing what used to be Il Matto. Today’s new restaurant aptly named White & Church gives Northern Italian food a completely different twist, along with a crazy-good kick. Chef Matteo Boglione, owner and chef of White & Church, is quite the innovative master of creation. His simple spin on classic dishes beckons your taste buds to fully take it all in, and then want second helpings. Just try not to like it, I dare you.

Upon entering, you can’t help but notice the large screen in the back of the room playing black and white older Italian films, muted, but of course, to allow you to still enjoy your own dinner conversations. Neon lights surround the restaurant giving it a modern edgy feel, along with simple wooden tables set around the room. The restaurant design is a smorgasbord of different looks all in one, but overall a simple yet diverse atmosphere prevails.

Crème Brulee, the delicate light dish typically served for dessert is actually an appetizer at White & Church. Crème brulee resides at the top of my list for favorite desserts, so I was intrigued to see how one could play it as a savory dish. Well Matteo Boglione, plays the game well with an airy, creamy Pecorino Cheese take on this timeless classic. A dollop of red onion marmalade is carefully placed atop, giving the buttery fare a sweet yet tart bite. Another favorite from the appetizers is the Fried Gorgonzola and Pear Salad.

These are no ordinary pears, but instead martini infused. The gorgonzola cheese was so pungent, with its crispy outside and gooey center, this cheese was paired perfectly with the sweet moist pears. Each heavenly bite is a perfect blend of savory and sweet.

Papa al Pomodoro, a traditional Italian tomato bread soup, is truly phenomenal. I was shocked to find out there was not one ounce of butter in this culinary creation. This hearty soup is creamy, and could warm up even the coldest of individuals, perfect for the winter months soon to hit New York. While on the topic of comfort, the Burrata filled Ravioli hit the spot too. This flavor explosion reminded me of the way Cher slapped Nicholas Cage across the face, screaming “Snap Outta it!” in the movie Moonstruck. The accompanying Black Truffle Sauce was lovely, but not overly pungent as truffles can sometimes be. Burrata, an already extremely creamy version of Mozzarella, bursts from this plump ravioli, I couldn’t get enough and could definitely fit in a few more of these babies with ease.

White & Church’s dishes are so warm and comforting, yet fun and new. Chef Matteo, a soft-spoken, true Italian, is insanely modest when it comes to his eclectic European style. This exceptionally unpretentious chef sat with my table for at least half hour, going into detail on his food, the development of the restaurant and his life journey in general.

Aside from Matteo’s well-spun classic dishes, the restaurant offers an enormous list of cocktails, 60 to be exact. You have your pickings from classic, dolce, salty, sparkling. Some even have edible creatures included, such as worms and honeybee and many other species, gracefully swimming in your cocktail of choice.

I decided I just had to try the Maltese martini, considered best martini in New York according to New York Magazine.  This pretty pink and orange drink consists of Ketel One Vodka, Pink Vermouth, Red Bell Pepper, Fresh Ginger, and Spicy Chili Powder. As pretty as it is, it will knock you for a doozy. The list was so long, I couldn’t stop myself from trying even more specialty cocktails. My favorite of the night was the Dolce Vita (Bulleit Bourbon, Di Saronno Amaretto, Mascarpone Cheese and Biscotti). With this drink, you’re really living the “sweet life”, as this drink alone could be dessert.

Our waiter Leo had an answer for everything, in a very good way. So many times a diner visits a restaurant and asks the waiter or waitress questions thinking they will steer them in the right direction, and many times they do not know the directions themselves.

Leo, knew everything there was to know about everything and anything. We couldn’t even attempt to stump him. No matter the dish, he knew every last ingredient in it. This was highly impressive, and every restaurant should be so lucky to have such a staff member on board.

For an incomparable night of leisure, do stop by for a cocktail, some innovative grub and a movie (perfect if your dining companion isn’t on their A game for conversation). There’s no excuse, it’s hard to miss White & Church, as the name of this restaurant is the name of its cross streets!
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Rada Steinberg is a foodie and wordsmith from birth. Rada grew up inManhattan, NY but was born in St. Petersburg Russia. Growing up in NYC, she was lucky enough to be exposed to some of the most unusual and tasty foods around. Having traveled to numerous countries throughout Europe, including Portugal, Poland, Spain, andothers, Rada believes her taste buds have been trained and are now prepared for the experience necessary to be a food critic. Rada studied in Rome, Italy for a year as well. Cooking has always been a huge love of Rada’s, and she’s interned for a restaurant PR company, and even worked for a Restaurant Reservations company. Her experience and appreciation for well-prepared food and seamless service is the perfect fit for Dinnerreviews.com©.