Raffaele Ristorante

Royal Palm Place
508 Via De Palmas
Boca Raton, FL  33431
(561) 392-1110
www.raffaelerestaurant.com

Reviewed & Photographed by: Tom House

Food & Service:

Front Entrance Raffaele Ristorante

Welcome to South Florida Chef Raffaele Esposito! After a long stint in New York City, Raffaele has brought his namesake restaurant to Boca Raton, Florida, in search of sun, sea and even more success.

We enjoyed our first visit to this restaurant in Royal Palm Place, and were pleased to discover Chef Esposito’s own unique spin on Italian food. We know better than most just how many Italian restaurants there are in the Sunshine State, so it was a relief to finally taste some creative, sun-inspired cuisine with roots true to Naples and Southern Italy.

A wood burning oven lends its flavor to more than ten pizzas and calzones from the creative menu, and the temperature I am told

Salmon Cakes

can be upward of 800 degrees F. Chef Raffaele is happy to show you around the restaurant when you enter, and he knows how to make you feel at home right away. There is a stunning bar area directly adjacent to the entrance, where you can order any kind of spirits you can imagine, all complimented by a very impressive wine list too.

As Antipasti, we enjoyed some simple pizza from the wood burning oven along with some not so simple Salmon Cakes, made just like a crab cake. It was already clear that we were in good gastronomical hands, complimented by Raffaele’s sharp, well trained servers.

Delicious Appetizer Plate

The chef would be sending out the foods of his choice, and we started with an appetizer plate of three different taste treats. Beautifully displayed were smoked salmon wrapped around asparagus and topped with goat cheese, a puffed potato shell topped with snails, leeks and cherry tomatoes and grilled shitake mushrooms with scallops and leeks. All equally interesting and delicious, but our favorite was the puffed potato and snails. No one serves snails anymore, so this was a nice surprise.

Let’s try some pasta! Chef Esposito’s Stuffed Rigatoni with veal and mixed vegetables in a light pink sauce was so full of savory goodness. A Positano – Inspired Risotti (Positano is a village on the Amalfi Coast in Campania, Italy) made with chick peas, zucchini and mussels was outstanding! I often decide just how good a chef is by how they make risotto, and I now know that Chef Raffeale is great!

Quail Stuffed with Sausage, Pignoli, Raisins and Pancetta

A palate cleansing Sicilian Insalate was placed before us, simply made with Florida oranges, red onions, black olives and dressed ever-so lightly with lemon and olive oil. A twist on the salty / sweet concept I had yet to try… we all loved it.

We were sipping hand selected Italian wines with each course, and had wisely paced ourselves for the main courses to come. Soon the glorious entrees arrived, starting with Quaglia Ripiene. This Quail stuffed with sausage, pignoli, raisins and pancetta in a light sauce was tremendous. The small bird was so meaty

Traditional Sicilian Insalate of Oranges, Olives, Onions, lemon and Olive Oil

and the stuffing brought the whole dish together. Next we marveled at Sautéed Branzino, finished with a most unusual pomegranate sauce and fresh mint. This is one you’d have to try to believe. Chef Esposito brings cutting edge concepts to his already proven culinary prowess. We were sold!

We finished off a wonderful dining experience with two awesome and equally unusual desserts.  Tiramisu made with fresh pineapple, along with Pistachio Mousse with strawberry sauce. Chef Raffaele Esposito’s food reads well, but tastes even better. We enjoyed a small but powerful sampling of the delicious food being served here, but there are at least fifty different items on the dinner

Pineapple Tiramisu and Pistachio Mousse with Strawberry Sauce

menu to choose from, and that is not including pizzas and desserts. We also counted 100 excellent bottles of wine to on his extensive list. Lunch is being served too, and we began planning out next visit before getting up from our seats. There is more information about Raffaele Ristorante on Facebook.

Take a detour from the usual Italian fare offered in the tri-county area of South Florida. Make your reservations soon at Raffaele Ristorante, and tell them Tom House from Dinnerreviews.com© sent you. It’s just like coming home for dinner. Boun appetito!

Written by: Iliana Angelina Coronel

Breathtaking Waterfalls and Geographic Wonders Await you in Ecuador

Ecuador is located in one of the most privileged areas of the planet, and has a cuisine that offers a variety of dishes with different combinations of ingredients. The country is divided into four regions with different customs and habits, all interesting and diverse. The main spoken language in Ecuador is Spanish. Ecuador straddles the equator, from which it takes its name.

Ecuadorian cuisine is diverse, varying with the altitude and associated agricultural conditions. Most regions in Ecuador follow the traditional three course meal of soup, a second course which includes rice and a protein such as meat or fish, and then dessert and coffee to finish. Supper is usually lighter, and sometimes consists only of coffee or herbal tea with bread.

In the highland region, pork, chicken, beef, and cuy (guinea pig) are popular and are served with a variety of grains, especially rice and corn or potatoes.

Fresh Fish by the Tons

In the coastal region, seafood is very popular, with fish, shrimp and ceviche being key parts of the diet. Generally, ceviches are served with fried plantain (chifles y patacones), popcorn or tostado. Plantain- and peanut-based dishes are the basis of most coastal meals. Encocados (dishes that contain a coconut sauce) are also very popular. Churrasco is a staple food of the Coast Region, especially Guayaquil.  Arroz con menestra y carne asada (rice with beans and grilled beef) is one of the traditional dishes of Guayaquil, as is fried plantain which is often served with it.

Native of Ecuador, Iliana Angelina Coronel explains: The main foods used in the Ecuadorian coastal cuisine are fish, especially trout and sea bass, as well as many other varieties of seafood. Food varieties are abundant here, and include lamb, pork, beef, turkey, potatoes, bananas, fruits and vegetables. Ecuadorian foods are flavored with various spices such as coriander, parsley, cinnamon and of course the famous chilis, ranked as the best accompaniment of native Ecuadorian cultural cuisine by far.

Many Different Varieties of Tropical Fruit are Available Here

I can remember growing up in my country as if it was yesterday, simply through the aromas of traditional Ecuadorian dishes cooking on the fire. These time-tested native dishes have created a record of important moments in my life with family and friends. Many good times I can recall revolved around food, just like in many cultures around our planet, and these times make you realize that life is one and the same for all people. Each day must be enjoyed to the fullest.

The mountains of Ecuador present the most authentic way of life here, where the people of our country work the corn and grain we use as a staple in many of our dishes. It’s fantastic how certain combinations of foods are used to create the many wonderful finished products we enjoy here. Humitas for example is prepared combining fresh ground corn with onions, eggs and spices that vary on the region, and on each family’s tradition. The dough is wrapped in a corn husk, but steamed rather than baked or boiled. Ecuadorian humitas may also contain cheese. This dish is so traditional in Ecuador that they have developed special pots just for cooking humitas!

It's All About Food in Ecuador

Then there is Yahuarlocro, a traditional dish of the Ecuadorian cuisine. It is a light stew prepared with meat and entrails of lamb including intestines, liver, lung, tongue, rumen, etc. It’s usually served with fried lamb blood, avocado and pickled red onion rings too. It can be consumed as a snack or as a main dish depending on the size of the plate. It’s especially popular in the Ecuadorian Andes mountain range and is considered a representative dish of the Ecuadorian cuisine. Its recipe and heritage is based on a soup that is linked with blood, an old tradition in Europe that we enjoy it in Ecuador made in our own style.

When talking about food in Ecuador, one cannot leave out Ceviche! It is one of the most popular foods in this country. It’s a little lighter than the Peruvian-style ceviches, and is not eaten only on the coast. In fact, this dish is very popular in all regions of Ecuador.

Shrimp Ceviche

The Guatita is another intricate part of the Ecuadorian cuisine. It’s a very interesting dish served hot, and is typically a beef stew that can be made with tripe or booklet, and is served with peanut sauce and potatoes. At the same time it is also recommended fried. It is a meal that is prepared with chunks of pork cooked in its own juices and served with a corn-based support. One of the most prestigious dishes eaten in some country towns and small villages of the Sierra is the guinea pig.

After enjoying one of these banquets, it is common practice to change up the flavors with rich sweets like coconut candies, pancakes or fruit such as tropical mango, passion fruit, banana, papaya or melon.

The world needs to become more aware of these styles of Latin cuisine rooted in history and rich in custom, where combining ancestral techniques with modern methods has been very successful in Ecuador for centuries. Visit Ecuador soon and enjoy the unique lifestyles of these proud Latin people. Tell them DinnerReviews.com© and  Iliana sent you!

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Iliana Angelina Coronel: Our newest writer is a young Ecuatoriana professional with a unique combination of business and technical skills, offering the kitchen a combination of great new things. She is the owner and executive chef of ‘Angelina & Jo’, an exclusive business that offers a diverse platform of services to help keep today’s busy families satiated in Maryland, USA. Her restaurant and business does everything from catering, personal chef services, party planning, barbecues, to picnics and much more. Her extensive knowledge of food ranges from traditional Latin dishes to gourmet cuisine, and with her exquisite presentation and dedication to her craft, her meals are transformed into a delight for all of your senses.
“Cooking is a great gift that I like to share with people”. Visit Iliana’s Twitter page at: @ilianangelina

Written by: Grace Cheung

Photos courtesy of Hill & Knowlton Strategies

Recently I was invited to an amazing event at Edible Canada, held in in Granville Island,Vancouver, BC. This extravaganza was hosted by Wendy Boys of Cocolico, a local chocolatier and pastry chef, along with Canadian Master Coffee Roaster representative, Marie-Claude Dessurealt of Van Houtte Coffee. Not only would all guests discover our own Coffee Profiles, but we would also savor a delectable assortment of great desserts as well, many of them made right before our eyes.

This is the first thing I saw when I took my seat!

Although I was late in arriving, waiting for me at my seat were 6 different kinds of chocolate to pair with 6 different types of coffee profiles. Soon I learned that I’m categorized as Velvety and Woodsy. Marie-Claude of Van Houtte taught us about our palates and individual tastes in order to discover which of the six coffee profiles we were. Finally, you arrive at your own  distinct profile after a short 6-question survey.

After this first sampling, our group moved over to the kitchen where we got a first-hand look at Wendy Boys making her scrumptious Classic Éclairs! First she shows us how to make Choux Paste, which is a blend of water, milk, butter, eggs and flour. Next a mixture of the water, milk, butter and sugar is heated, then all the flour is dumped in at once, and stirred aggressively!

Here is Marie-Claude of Van Houtte, teaching us about our palate and tastes

Next we make the dough in the mixer by slowly adding the eggs and mixing well until everything comes together. Once the eggs are incorporated completely, Wendy put the dough into a piping bag and we move on to the next step. At this point, the dough has great gluten texture. An easy way to check the texture is to simply put some of the mixture between your index finger and thumb...if it sticks when you try to separate then its ready!

Next the dough is piped onto a parchment paper lined baking sheet in 2 inch pieces, then into the oven they go for about 12-16 minutes. While we are waiting for the pastries to cook, we make the vanilla cream. Combining a mixture of sugar and egg yolks with flour and cornstarch is a tricky process.

Once the pastries are out of the oven, two holes are poked two in each end and the vanilla cream is piped inside

You have to ensure that when you add the liquid (hot milk steeped with vanilla bean) that you are tempering it so you don’t end up with scrambled eggs. After this mixture is incorporated, you put the whole thing back onto the stove and add gelatin. Let it cool to room temperature and then add in whipping cream.

Once the pastries are out of the oven, two holes are poked in each end and the vanilla cream is piped inside. (Gosh, just seeing these pictures again is making me want more éclairs)! To finish the dessert, Wendy adds a chocolate glaze. Every éclair gets to take a dip in the heavenly chocolate sauce. But wait… it’s not over yet, they also get a dusting of chocolate.

All in all, the whole process takes a little more than an hour, but it is a lot of effort. To be honest, a freshly made éclair is a decadent treat, and I am sure I could have eaten a dozen by myself!

Every éclair got to take a dip in the heavenly chocolate sauce.

To match more coffee profiles, Wendy also prepared a whole host of other desserts. One of my favorites was the lemon and white chocolate macaroons. I don’t mind telling you, I scored 4 of these “to-go”! This was meant for the Mellow and Fruity profile, with Costa Rica Light Roast.

Wendy also made us some delightful Pot de Crème with milk chocolate. I do love how the pinch of Maldon Salt adds a new level of flavors to a dessert dish. This one was designed for the Mellow and Woodsy flavor profile and was served with a Mocha Java Light Roast.

Ah…anything tastes better on a stick, right? And the Raspberry Chocolate Lollipop was no exception…so rich and dense that one pop is all you need. For this very rich dessert, the best coffee to pair it with is the Sumatra Dark Roast, which matches a Bold and Woodsy profile.

The Finished Delectable Classic Dessert

One new item for me was the Banofffee Pie. It’s a tasty concoction of Caramel cream with banana slices, and toffee bits. This was amazing and a treat that might just make me a banana lover again! And if you are a Bold and Fruity profile person, you’ll enjoy this even more with a nice Kenya Dark Roast.

The other dessert that Wendy created in front of us was the Cocoa Nib Pannacotta. She made the pannacotta ahead of time, but showed us how to make the topping.

The Banofee Pie

It’s a simple salad of Clementine’s, mint and lime. She infused the mint into the simple syrup and used it to dress the Clementine’s. Then she grated 99% cocoa on top of it all. Yes, 99%…that’s not a typo! This refreshing dessert pairs well with the Africana Fair Trade Organic Medium Roast, a match made in heaven for the Velvety and Fruity profile.

Be sure to check out Van Houtte’s website to Discover Your Coffee Profile. We all have wines varietals that we like better than others; it’s time you find out your coffee preference too, don’t you think?

Cocoa Nib Pannacotta

It was a great event and one that gives me a whole new respect for the delicateness of these desserts we so often take for granted, and some new ones I never heard of too. I hope you enjoyed this very detailed tutorial, and now, armed with the recipes, I just might take a stab at making one this weekend! How about you?

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Editor’s Note: We are pleased to welcome Grace Cheung to to the DinnerReviews.com© exclusive family of international food critics.

Grace Cheung - Grace has always had a fork in one hand, and a pen in the other as she eats her way throughVancouver’s restaurant scene with a discerning bite. She spends her day scouring the best eateries and racking up frequent dining points. In between meals, she works as a marketer for a financial firm and also has her own company, providing social media services to local restaurants and entertainment venues. Must haves: Blackberry, iPad, and a nice Barolo. Monitor the feasting at GraceCheung604.com or in realtime on Twitter @gracecheung604.

The Dining Room

413 Washington Avenue
Miami Beach, Florida 33139
305-397-8444

Food & Service:
www.diningroommiami.com

Reviewed by: Tom House

Executive Chef Horacio Rivadero

This is one of those restaurants that you just have to experience. Whoever said size matters has never been to The Dining Room. I’m sure all the “small” clichés have been over-used by now, so I won’t go there. Where I will go is that this is an excellent restaurant, and intimate is the description that comes to my mind first. Owners Maria, Zack and Brian Lieberman have brought the term Family Affair to a whole new level! Some of the freshest, most well thought out food was served to my Celebrity Guest and Social Astronaut Amanda Corbett and I on our recent visit. Here is what went down.

The Dining Room’s food is created and cooked by Executive Chef Horacio Rivadero, and simply shouts, “I was just made a few seconds ago”!

Cobia Ceviche Marinated in Yuzu Lime Juice, Red Onions, Cilantro, Aji Limo Peppers finished with Grapefruit Sorbet

Just look up from your table and you’ll see Chef Rivadero and Chef de Cuisine Cristian Alvarez cooking just a few feet from the front door.

Even though Chef Rivadero’s mentor is Celebrity Chef and South Florida culinary pioneer, Douglas Rodriguez, he is making a giant splash while paving his own legacy today at The Dining Room. Less is so much more here. The uncomplicated but well planned menu features only seven main courses.Owner Zack Lieberman says sometimes they have off the menu specials as well, but what is offered is sufficient in my opinion. There are also ten Little Plates at the beginning of the menu, many of which could easily be enjoyed as a main course. Wine list is great too!

Serrano Wrapped Scallops, with Foie Gras and Sherry Sauce

We were feeling adventurous as usual, and The Dining Room was happy to fashion our gastronomic escapade for us. Soon our palates were awakened with a perfectly chilled Cobia Ceviche. Gorgeous Florida Cobia marinated in yuzu lime juice, red onions, cilantro and aji limo (this fruity tasting Peruvian pepper is a spicy secret ingredient from the Andes), and finished with grapefruit sorbet. I can assure you that this was fantastic, fresh and full of flavor…just as Zack had promised.

Grilled Calamari in Citrus-Chili Glace, Radish, Watercress, Kalamata Aioli

This dish awoke our palates as it is designed to do, and left us yearning for more of Chef Rivadero’s culinary creations. We would not be disappointed. As our taste buds were still whistling fresh from the ceviche, more edible culinary ideas from the mind of the chef appeared before us. We were salivating over Grilled Calamari Salad, as well as Scallops wrapped in Serrano Ham, with foie gras, sherry sauce and herbed crostini. Mingling with crunchy red radishes and watercress, the lightly grilled squid in the Calamari Salad is dressed in citrus-chili glaze and drizzled with Kalamata aioli!

Filet Mignon Churrasco, Heirloom Tomatoes & Blue Cheese, Malbec Chimichurri

Reading these ingredients should give you an idea of the thought and effort that goes into Chef Rivadero’s menu, but tasting is truly believing! These two dishes were stunningly delicious. The Dining Room’s scallop recipe pays homage to the age-old combination of ham and scallops in this, a house specialty. These beautiful bivalves were perfectly plump and cooked only until slightly translucent inside. The flavor combinations on this plate are something I’ll remember for a long time, and I will compare future chef’s scallop recipes to this one. That’s how good it is!

We’re enjoying some New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc as we move into main courses, all chosen for us by Zack and the chef. Striped Bass with pistachio pesto, grilled white asparagus, Serrano ham, baby arugula and fava beans is up next.

Striped Bass, Pistachio Pesto, Grilled White Asparagus, Ham, Baby Arugula, Fava Beans

The skin on this filleted fish was delightfully crispy, adding just the right amount of crunch to go along with the flavor combinations in the preparation. We also loved the Filet Mignon Churrasco, simply served with heirloom tomatoes and blue cheese salad, finished with a Malbec chimichurri. This piece of meat was juicy, full of amazing flavor and went great with a glass of Merlot.

We were full, but still managed to sample Crispy Braised Pork, made with green mustard, white bean puree and topped with pickled red radishes. A very hearty taste and every bit as good as all the other dishes we tried. Attention: There is a great chef at work here, and he makes creative food with love!

Baked Patagonia is Pistachio Cake, Dulce de Leche Ice Cream, Meringue, Passion Berry Sauce

Before we could protest, an exciting little dessert arrived. Looking like a Baked Alaska from the old days, The Dining Room’s version is called Baked Patagonia. Check it out – Pistachio cake, dulce de leche ice cream, Italian meringue, and passion fruit berry sauce. The meringue had been toasted to perfection, and Amanda and I didn’t stop until it was gone. We will be trying the Key Lime Tart with Vanilla Ice Cream and the Chocolate Bomb on our next visit. Speaking of “The Bomb”…The Dining Room in Miami is just that! One of the best dinners I have had this year. Check this gastronomic gem out soon, and tell them Tom House and DinnerReviews.com© sent you!

Ernie’s Italian Chophouse
3150 N. Federal Hwy.
Lighthouse Point, Fl 33064

www.erniesitalianchophouse.com

Photographed & Reviewed by: J. Oliver

Food: Service:

Sexy Main Dining Room at Ernie's

Ernie’s Italian Chophouse is a culinary concept whose time has come. This sleek, new eatery offers everything that Italian restaurants, and for that matter most restaurants, are missing today. Great food, beautiful surroundings and excellent service. Now isn’t that what we all go out to dinner for in the first place? At Ernie’s they understand that dining out is supposed to be entertainment, and it really is a lot of fun coming here for dinner.

Opened in January 2012, the brain-child of owner Ernest J. Patti has sprung to life under the early tutelage of South Florida restaurant consultant Tom House, and incredibly talented Executive Chef, Gary Wood. Chef Gary is the driving culinary force behind the excellent menu and nightly specials to this day. Ernie himself was very successful in the nightclub industry here in South Florida 20 years ago. Today he is a dedicated restaurant owner who is clearly destined for even more success in the hospitality business with his namesake, flagship restaurant.

This is the best Sunday Gravy you'll ever find in a restaurant

One of the most interesting and delicious menus awaits the Italian food aficionado. The well thought out wine list makes you want to drink and explore the different high and low end wines offered, and they all are priced to sell! Ernie is a very hands-on owner, who spends a lot of time working with Chef Wood in the kitchen to make sure both of their extremely high standards in food are maintained. Don’t be surprised if you come in for Sunday Gravy, and see Ernie in the kitchen stirring a few pots of sauce and cooking the ribs and sausage himself. His positive energy is contagious and his food outrageous.

Sunday Gravy is an incredible deal for $30.00, and you may add a glass of good Chianti for $37.00. A large bowl of Paccheri pasta is also included with homemade San Marzano tomato sauce. What an incredible deal! I’ll be there Sunday for sure…what about you?

We arrived with a reservation on a busy Friday night, and were ushered to our seat with no waiting. Within seconds our smiling server was upon us, taking our drink order and making sure we were comfortable. We could see the open kitchen and smell the good food cooking from where we were sat, further tantalizing our appetites. Based on some recommendations we read on line and the suggestions of our server, we ordered some meatballs and Gnocchi for the table right away.

The menu choices are wonderful, and Chef Gary Wood never disappoints with specials of the day either, including today’s choice of fresh Grouper over white bean ragout. I enjoyed every last, white flaky morsel to the fullest. The elegant ragout was enhanced with garlic, Chorizo, oregano, and the fish was topped with a fennel salad and lime dressing. My guests really enjoyed the superb Beef Carpaccio, topped with garlic aioli and an herb and arugula salad. The meatballs at Ernie’s are the best I have ever had…and I am Italian! First of all they are 100% veal, making them light and airy! (see picture) I’ve tried to get the recipe, but no one there wants to give it up. The flavor is amazing, and an order consists of two big meatballs served over a mixed green salad and a generous scoop of creamy ricotta cheese. This is plate licking good food!

Grouper over white bean ragout, with garlic, Chorizo, oregano, fennel salad & lime vinaigrette

Fresh Florida Cobia was also offered as a special, served over mashed parsnips, a grape tomato and olive chutney, finished with orange vino cotto. Ernie’s is so much more than just another Italian restaurant. I like to call it an Italian-style steakhouse, where cutting-edge gastronomy is a nightly occurrence. You can have the traditional dishes that Grandma used to make, or incredibly modern meals you’d expect to find in the best New York City restaurants. The Grilled Octopus imported from Spain is a home run. It is served with cannellini beans, baby arugula and warm limoncello vinaigrette…truly delicious. Since this  dish made an appearance on the front page of  The Sun Sentinel’s Food Section, it is one of the most popular dishes on the menu and in South Florida too.

Moist and Delicious Pork Chop

Executive Chef Gary Wood is the Key Ingredient

The Chicken Scarpariello for Two made with Crispy Whole Free Range Chicken (On the Bone), Cut Up and Served with Sweet Italian Sausage and Peppers (Hot Peppers on request) is outrageous.  The chicken is crispy outside and moist inside, combined with perfectly balanced sweet and savory flavors make this dish worth returning for again and again. Chef Gary Wood is well seasoned and has the training and experience to carry this Italian-style steakhouse to the Promised Land. The list of where he has worked and what he has done is another story in itself. Gary will tell you his mentor is Celebrity Chef Nick Morfogen from 32 East in Delray, and that is some serious pedigree.

Ernie's Black Fettucini with Shrimp, White Wine Butter Sauce, Jumbo Crab and Toasted Bread Crumbs

Dinner is served daily, and happy hour Monday – Friday from 4:30 to 6:30 pm is very popular too. Meatball Happy Hour at Ernie’s is on Thursdays from 4:30 p.m – 6:30  PM. Ernie’s delicious meatballs are free at the bar and you can enjoy half off well, wine, and specialty cocktails too! They even offer a different featured vodka every week that you can make into a $5.00 martini! What are you waiting for? Forget about the strip mall location because once you are inside you are transported by the one of kind window treatments, cool music, sexy blue lighting and modern metal sculptures on the walls.

Desserts are great! A must have is the Frozen Limoncello…so refreshing and cool. The awesome Cannoli goes so well with an espresso or cappucino, and Chocolate Mousse is first class too. New York Style or Ricotta Cheesecake and fresh fruit when available.

Frozen Limoncello, Cannolis, Chocolate Mousse and More!

Are you are tired of driving around aimlessly searching for a great place to eat? Had enough of Italian restaurants and steakhouses that serve disappointing food? If you haven’t already, it’s definitely time you discovered Ernie’s. Find out what all the excitement is about. Taste the food and feel the vibe for yourself at Ernie’s Italian Chophouse. Make sure you tell them that DinnerReviews.com© sent you. It’s so good you can’t fuggheddaboutit!

EPIC Restaurant

The Fairmont Royal York Hotel
100 Front Street W, Toronto ON M5J 1E3
416-860-6949
www.epicrestaurant.ca

Written & Photographed by: Andrew Coppollino

Food: Service: From time to time, I hear the slag that kitchens in hotels can’t be successful. There are reasons, no doubt, that such a statement is made; and precedents for experiencing the truth of it too. Many of us might agree with the statement, however, it’s not the case with EPIC in the Fairmont Royal York. The effort and the execution by Chef Tim Palmer and his EPIC staff is a noble one; and one that is entirely successful, my palate tells me. They’ve put together a solid Canadian menu and some simply great Ontario wines. It’s packed with juicy flavours and aromas.

Part of the beautiful Toronto skyline

The Royal York is a grand hotel. It has history and character, but it’s not beholden to the past. I like the soft, fluid and few plush elements of the dining room. I sat at a table which seemed quite private but also had the feel of a pleasantly busy dining room. That hits a good balance for me.

In terms of the food, the decision has been made for a sustainable, Canadian menu. That’s laudable. Yet, at the same time, it is never a good thing to be hoist on one’s own local petard, or to be cudgeled by one’s own 100-mile principles (and Palmer isn’t). Sometimes you want an exotic piece of seafood from far, far away, or a succulent chunk of tropical fruit—and why shouldn’t you be able to have it?

Elegant Silver Vessel Filled with Fresh Bread

Palmer has worked his way through the Fairmont program – the apprenticeship program is something the company is proud of, via Southern and Northern Alberta Institutes of Technology in Calgary and Edmonton, respectively, before earning his chops at among other establishments,  Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge and the Fairmont Southampton Bermuda. He’s cooked in enough places to know local, but he isn’t driven erratically by it. Like I said, “It’s a good, solid Canadian-ingredient menu.” “Canada has the best of everything, except mangoes,” he says with a laugh. That’s a sentiment that I buy into.

Amazing Beet Salad at Epic Restaurant

To me, EPIC’s cooking – heightened by Canadian ingredients and flavors’ – puts the restaurant in this landmark hotel category on simply delicious terrain, 100-mile or otherwise.

In its entirety, The Royal York, apparently, can punch out 10,000 meals a day, including banquets, and that’s no mean feat. At the same time, Palmer, et. al. has a very good and fine touch that belies the immensity of what an otherwise very busy major hotel does with food en masse. I love the majesty of the ol’ RYH,

Foie Gras Done Right

still prominent though the taller bank buildings nearby tower over it. And the food never towers on the plate in overly dramatic presentations, or sits in a silly and overly fussy fashion on the plate. The food can have towering flavour and architectural beauty, however. Sweet, satin-textured Laurentian, Quebec, foie gras is moulded and gently brûléed. Soft and heady, the foie is countered by the sweetness which settles nicely along as a classic pairing with walnut-raisin bread, bumbleberry, Saskatoonberry (a nod to Palmer’s prairie origins), and a luscious charred fig that yields an avocado-texture richness. Something you can’t find in Canada, is there anything more sensual than a fresh fig?

Lovely Halibut, Even Slightly Over-Cooked, it was Excellent

Perhaps the best crab cake – meaty crab flavor and superb texture that you can get only from the real thing – I have ever had, along with a succulent, meaty divers scallop – just translucent inside – with a balanced combination of Savoy cabbage, lentils, and a playfully zesty jalapeno truffle-foam that doesn’t out muscle the scallop. The lentils snap just slightly, just like I like them to. An inter-course of a mushroom cappuccino / latte is an inventive and complex chowder of heady hedgehog and yellowfoot or chanterelles, topped with a Pinot Noir froth and garnish of porcini powder. It’s a delicious little slurp with big flavour that somehow manages to stimulate the appetite in a way I couldn’t have imagined.

This Truly was an Epic Surf & Turf

A Ewenity Dairy Co-operative goat cheese, out of Conn, Ontario, accompanies a dual-coloured, sous vide-cooked beet salad served with a simple balsamic vinaigrette and greens. The flavour and colour of the beets shine. This, to me, is the purest form of cooking. Sure a sauce might be harder to make; however, treating the vegetable in this simple way is the essence of getting the most flavour out of the produce possible.

A main course of roasted halibut arrives with fingerling potatoes. It’s sweet and succulent, and though I would have liked it just a tad less cooked, it is rich and delicious. Swiss chard, sweet potato, and broccoli are simple, foundational vegetables kicked up by a small dollop of sturgeon caviar. It’s a lovely dish, both in appearance and flavour.

Exceptional Cheese Platter

Palmer riffs on surf and turf with tender lobster tail perched atop seared venison (I love that flavour), and served with the striking contrast of white asparagus and citrusy foam. The marker here, though, is a chocolate-tinged sauce that pairs well with the venison and, not surprisingly given lobster’ inherent sweetness, manages well enough with the shellfish too.

2005 Lakeview Cellars “Starboard” fortified Cabernet Sauvignon at 19 percent a.b.v.

Cheeses finish up the dinner, and a favourite of mine: Le 1608. Made with milk from a unique and at-risk beast, Canadienne cattle, brought from France four hundred years ago. These cheeses are matched nicely by a 2005 Lakeview Cellars “Starboard” fortified Cabernet Sauvignon at 19 percent a.b.v.  It spends 18 months in oak barrels and has plumy, chocolatety tannins. Overall, a truly fine dining experience and one I would return for again!
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Andrew Coppolino

Dinnerreviews.com© is proud to feature this Canadian restaurant reviewer for Echo Weekly and former restaurant critic of The Waterloo Region Record. He is a full time freelance writer, broadcaster, and food commentator, and host of both the radio program “The Food Show” on 570 News and the cooking and food segment on Rogers TV “Grand River Living.” Andrew’s done cooking apprenticeships at Kitchener fine dining restaurants, and does occasional kitchen stages when he isn’t writing for various publications, developing content for his website Waterloo Region Eats, or in a restaurant somewhere eating yet more food.